Friday, August 6, 2010

Travelogue Part 1 : Jaipur

I had gone on tour with my cousin Rohini, who's come back to Bombay now after being away for four years. She still wanted to roam about the country, and I was looking for a chance anyway! :)

Our train left Bombay (Bandra Terminus) on the 24th of July at 15:45 hours to go to Jaipur. It was pouring that day, and we were worried about our train getting delayed due to the rains but thankfully, it stopped raining as soon as we crossed Bombay. We were scheduled to reach Jaipur at 10:50 hours the next day. A cousin Lakshmesh and a family friend Prasen were supposed to receive us. I didn't even know a cousin of mine existed and lived in Jaipur till the time I planned this trip- that's when Rohini told me of it! So, the train reached Jaipur at 11:45 a.m. after an hour long delay. After Prasen and Lakshmesh took our luggage even after us insisting them not to (men!!), we went to the RTDC office on the platform to inquire about their night tour package and booked four tickets for the Pink City night tour - Rs. 250 per ticket with vegetarian meals included! After dumping our bags at Lakshmesh's place and freshening up, we went for lunch at this place called Candles and Cuisines. You may never have any qualms about food when you're in Rajasthan. The food there is awesome.

In Jaipur, cycle rickshaws, horse and camel carts, elephants as modes of transport other than tempo rickshaws are a common sight. The roads are clean, and you can see Rajasthani paintings even on the side-walk.

Soon after lunch, we headed to City Palace.

It's where the present king Maharaja Sawai Bhavanisingh and his royal family reside. The previous king Maharaja Sawai Mansingh II's palace is there too. We hired a guide to show us around the palace. When you're in Jaipur, make sure you bargain everywhere (other than the RTDC shops and office of course) to avoid getting fleeced! This is Sawai Bhavanisingh's palace:

The yellow flag suggests that the king is in town. When he's out of Jaipur, the yellow flag isn't there too. The other flag is a sign of the king's property. 

 Sawai Mansingh II's palace is huge in comparison and this is only a part of it:

Sawai Mansingh II was the 10th king of Jaipur, that is, the one before Sawai Bhavanisingh. He was married to Maharani Gayatridevi, a woman very well known for her beauty. The palace is humongous and we were in awe of the delicately carved doorways.

Sawai Mansingh II would only drink Ganga Jal (water from the Ganges), and hence it'd be stored in two identical huge silver vessels. These vessels have made it to the Guinness Book of World Records for being the largest silver vessels in the world.

The guide took us to the dancing area where professional dancers would perform, and the Maharaja would watch these ladies dance along with his jury. There were separate windows for the Maharanis so that they could enjoy the dance too. There are four gates- two on each side of the dancing area, all symbolising the four seasons in India.

This gate symbolises the monsoons:

This symbolises summer:

And the following gates symbolise winter and spring respectively:

Next, the guide took us around another side of the palace. It was a chamber, and it had the portraits of all the kings of Jaipur. Unfortunately, photography was prohibited in there so I could not take any pictures. He went on to tell us something about each king. Jaipur got it's name from it's first king Maharaja Jaisingh. The third king was a sumo wrestler. The fifth king of Jaipur got the Jal and Hawa Mahals erected whereas the eighth king Sawai Ramsingh got the entire city painted pink, giving it the title of "Pink City".

After looking around some more, we rushed to the RTDC office on M.I. road. The night tour was supposed to start at 6:30pm and we got there by 6:15. The vehicle wasn't there yet, and we got time for some chai (tea) at a tapri (roadside stall) just opposite the tour office. It started pouring soon after, and it seemed like the rain would never stop. We crossed our fingers hoping for the rain to stop but it wouldn't. The tour office members told us to wait for a while, and that the tour won't get cancelled come what may. They also added that it hadn't rained the way it did that day in a lot of years! They joked about us bringing the rain from Bombay. At 7pm, a sumo arrived. There were already five people seated in there- the driver, the guide and three tourists (one from Spain and two from France). We hopped in from the back and made ourselves comfortable. The tour began with Statue circle being our first stop and Vidhan Sabha Bhawan being the next. Our third stop was the Laxminarayan temple or, more commonly known as, Birla Mandir.

Albert Hall museum was our next destination:

We couldn't see the Jal and Hawa Mahals properly courtesy the rains, so they took us straight to an RTDC shop where we could buy quilts, sarees, dress materials, gemstones and other handicrafts. There was a small Sanganeri print presentation by a man standing at the entrance. He showed us how these prints are made. I recorded the whole thing! The green colour is made of spinach, while the yellow one is made of turmeric, lemon juice and sunflower. After printing the designs on a plain cloth, it is dipped into plain water mixed with herbal salt which gives the cloth its colour. The water appears colourless when mixed with the salt (made of 22 different  herbs) but the cloth still gets a colour somehow. These are Sanganeri prints and they say the colours don't fade away even after the cloth is washed.

There were some beautiful quilts inside but we don't really need huge quilts back here in Bombay so without spending much time in that section, I went to a gifts section to buy some Rajasthani coasters for home. Rohini bought some gemstones. 

We missed seeing the lighting at Amber fort which is supposed to be the best part of the tour. It wasn't lit that day due to the rains. We decided to visit all the places we missed the next day, and the tour guy took us straight to Nahargarh fort for dinner.

After dinner, they dropped us back to their office on M.I. road from where they picked us up, and we headed homewards (Lakshmesh's place). We saw Raj Mandir, a famous theatre, on the way. It's very well known for it's interior design and structure but we could see it only from the outside as it was getting late to go home.

We dropped Prasen to his hostel and went home. Lakshmesh had to go to work the next day i.e. the 26th of July and he had booked a vehicle for us so we could go wherever we wanted to throughout the day time. We quickly planned places we'd see the next day and went to bed. I had a good night's sleep. :)

More pics here.


Ankur said...

Good post! Its funny that the tour hasn't changed a bit even in 4 years since I have been there.

Jaipur is truly a good place, forgot to tell you to try rawat's kachauri which is a famous snack there!

Sanjana said...

Sounds like you had fun there. =D

Gosh, reminds me of the IV. Sigh.
Anyway, nice post. Awesome detailing. Totally loved the pictures. =)

JD said...

WOW! bada hai to behtar hai :) nice post...loved da way u interviewed da print wala banda...send him da link, his kids will feel proud of him :P but as Ankur said, u should have tried da kachorys over there!

Sakhi said...

Looks like you had a great time :) Loved the video of sangeri prints.. i am fond of block prints but dont do it with herbal colours.

Reema said...

wow!! great travelogue..I want to go to Jaipur,Udaipur and Jaisalmer in Rajasthan..hopefully next yr. waiting for next part.

Anubha said...

Yes and I forgot to give you the credit for it! :D Sorry! Will try the kachauri next time- I want to go there again! :)

Yes I did. You'd like the second part better.

Hehe I would send the link to him but he refused to tell me what all herbs the secret salt was made of so no making him famous now! :P Kidding. I wish I could do that, really. These men do this every single day and a good number of times that too, for the tourists- especially those who come via the RTDC tour package. And kachori- next time! :)

I think you should try them out with herbal colours next time then. I wish he'd tell me which herbs the salt was made of- would have shared the info with you. I know how much you love such things! :)

Yes I want to go to Udaipur too!! Heard the forts and palaces there are far more beautiful! And the next part is up now! :)